HIDDEN AWAY IN THE UNLIKELY LOCALE of a second-storey Chinatown loft, this jazzy supper club transports you to a time when people dressed for dinner and a night on the town. Dreamed up by Tannis Ling, owner of Bao Bei, along with longtime executive chef Joël Watanabe, sous-chef Alain Chow and chef de cuisine Felix Maristany, it’s a place designed for holding hands in dimly lit corners. The imaginative and shareable menu is a sophisticated confluence of Japanese and Italian cuisines. Where else might you find charcoal udon with Dungeness crab and Calabrian chili butter, or coppa (dry-cured pork shoulder) with sukiyaki glaze? Bar manager Fraser Crawford and wine director Belinda Siu preside over a sprawling selection of libations from Italy, Japan and elsewhere, plus clever cocktails that, like the food, deftly walk the tightrope between Kissa Tanto’s two culinary ports of call.

A surreal combination of flavours, in the sexiest of spaces. JESSICA EMIN