SETTLE IN HERE WITH A FRIEND at a table for two or at the long, busy bar and at first, all seems normal. Better than normal, actually. For the wine list runs deep with unlikely bargains from Burgundy, the mood of the place is joyous, and its look — by local superstar designer Zébulon Perron — is as contemporary and appealing today as it was the day Plaza opened in late 2015. But hang on a moment — what’s Elmo doing seated at the bar? And what are all those plastic dinosaurs doing gathered on the pass? Order the sashimi de pétoncles and you’ll soon find out. The sliced raw scallop is served, draped over the striped back of a small triceratops, dressed with crunchy quinoa, citrus segments and a dash of heat. Plaza co-chefs and co-owners Charles-Antoine Crête and Cheryl Johnson are committed to having fun, but they also share unassailable credentials and an intense commitment to quality. Crête is an improvisational virtuoso; Johnson provides an enabling balance. Together they push boundaries, leaning on French tradition while embracing Japanese. Classics like sea snails with miso butter have, by popular demand, lingered on the menu since day 1. So too has the ever-changing fish on the plancha and a dessert called “fruit crispy,” a multi-textural exploration of seasonal fruits and berries. The tasting menu here was never part of the original plan; it was introduced in response to customer demand. Ever since, it’s been the most popular way to dine here.

Food, service, hospitality, energy, vibe — all of the above! Alex Chen