HEMMED BY RIVER AND TREES, River Café’s location on Prince’s Island Park alone sets it apart. So too does its approach to dining. Here, a reverence for the environment and the commitment to exclusive use of Canadian and Albertan ingredients — from Highwood Crossing’s grains and canola oil to vegetables from Poplar Bluff Organics — are evident on every plate. In contrast to the glass-andsteel office towers of Calgary’s business centre looming nearby, the dining room’s rustic décor highlights exposed wood, stone and brick, and the vintage sports equipment is a nod to local fishing lodges and mountain resorts. Scott MacKenzie’s menus straddle these two Alberta realities, with seasonal offerings rich in rural flavours executed with urban finesse. Sommelier Bruce Soley’s wine list is replete with obscure treasures from lesser-known producers. With verdant green surrounding the patio through the warmer months, and the cozy crackle of the fireplace through fall and winter, all seasons make for a welcome trip.

The kitchen is always evolving forward, which, after a couple of decades, is impressive. [Proprietor] Sal Howell and her team are to be admired. Elizabeth Carson