There are hallmarks to a quality neighbourhood bar. Namely, friendly faces, regular hours and ice-cold drinks. But how about a cellar of natural wine? Deep-cut classic cocktails? Martinis dosed with saline solution? This newly minted mainstay in the Junction offers all of the above. Service starts in the morning, when the room fills with work-from-homers nursing cortados and cold brew. As the day wears on, the cocktail menu’s daytime sippers (say, a Batanga made with authentic Mexican cola) and stiffer classics (rum Old Fashioneds) slide over the bar. Here, a Martini service comes complete with a full spread of accoutrements, including blue-cheese brine and pearl onions. While it’s worth the journey, it’s still a neighbourhood bar, so icy pilsners and shot specials are always on offer.