Once you’ve found the painted duck on the wall above an unmarked, handleless door, you’ve arrived at the right place. Ring the bell and, in classic speakeasy style, you’ll wait for the bouncer to let you inside the transformed 19th-century cold storage warehouse. Persistence and patience have their rewards. In this case, perhaps a whimsical cocktail such as the Joe Peachi Negroni variation or Rice to Meet You, made with Jamaican rum, sake, passionfruit, tamarind and toasted rice orgeat. For the intrepid off-roaders, order something sur-mesure to suit one’s mood or taste.