Fourteen years in, Justin Cournoyer continues to forage, ferment, dehydrate, preserve and transform local ingredients and wild riches. They are unveiled in a smart, five-course tasting menu. Expect dishes like Salt Spring Island mussels tossed in fermented apple juice and juniper butter, or beef tartare topped with burbot liver, fermented apple and rhubarb jelly. The summertime patio is stellar.