Alma matches Juan Lopez Luna’s modern Mexican cooking with seasonal Quebec ingredients and sommelier Lindsay Brennan’s Catalan-leaning wine list. Lopez Luna’s approach is grounded in tradition but embraces innovation, seamlessly weaving his Tlaxcalan roots with local produce and, in the process, challenging perceptions of what Mexican food can be. The carte blanche menu, a nine-course experience inspired by the concept of mar y montaña — where the mountains meet the sea — changes monthly. A five-course option offers a preview of the full tasting. Seabream crudo is a signature plate, prepared with hibiscus, ancho chile, tamarind and avocado, finished with Catalan olive oil from Celler Frisach. Seasonal offerings include a blue-corn tostada topped with albacore tuna, pipián verde and fresh mint, and a whole-shrimp taco on a house-nixtamalized yellow-corn tortilla with chipotle cream. The kitchen grinds fresh masa from heirloom Mexican corn daily for their tortillas and other dishes.

Thoughtful and evocative cooking.” Tommy Dion

The wine list leans natural, highlighting Spanish winemakers that Brennan works with directly through her import agency, Vin I Vida. Soft lighting, a long brick wall and a lively, yet intimate, setting help the space feel warm and inviting. In the summer, a shaded terrace extends the experience outdoors. Alma may be tucked into a quiet corner of Montreal, but its reputation extends far beyond.