While Rob Rossi and David Minicucci’s empire is impressive — they just opened Sammarco, an ambitious downtown steak house — their firstborn has retained all its charms. New-school Italian classics — like octopus, poached for three hours, then charcoal-crisped in the wood oven — are prepared with care and command. Pizza remains faultless. Cocktails and wines are well chosen, service warm and professional.