The charm of this intimate room is undeniable — a small, narrow space, tastefully yet casually decorated, accented by seductively dim lighting and a cool Italo-disco playlist. Add to the mix discreet, professional and friendly service, a progressive but accessible wine list, and owner-chef Zach Kolomeir’s smart, inventive French-inspired cooking, and it’s no surprise this Harbord bistro has been a hit since it opened in 2019. Montrealer Tom Creery was part of the initial team and returned last year as chef de cuisine, reinforcing the gradual progression on Kolomeir’s menus from exuberant indulgence to a more refined and focused style, truer to modern bistro cooking. Consider a fricassee of sweetbread and sweet peas with minty sauce paloise. Or grilled lobster quickened with bone marrow and a tomato-shiso vinaigrette. Fall might bring a hearty breaded pork chop with preserved pepper paprikash. Pommes dauphines — fluffy mashed potato and choux pastry puffs — are a constant, though the garnish (perhaps whipped salt cod) changes continually; otherwise, the menu shifts with each microseason. The kitchen will happily create a tasting menu for the table, but if you dine à la carte, let your server pair wines by the glass and do not forgo crêpes Suzette for dessert.

There is heart in the cooking.” Jenny Shin