If there were a temple to the art of grilling, it would resemble Peter Ho’s serene, clean-lined 14-seat yakitori counter at Sumibiyaki Arashi. At its heart is the binchō-tan charcoal grill, of which Ho is a master, presenting a 16-course omakase menu centred around skewers of chicken — heritage birds, impeccably butchered, of which every morsel is used. Other dishes punctuate the procession of widely varied flavours and textures — chawanmushi with red crab and yuzu perhaps, or a sweet potato dessert. But chicken is the star, tender heart sizzling, skin crisped, bones and feet turned into a richly layered jewel of a broth. Expect thigh (kashiwa), skin-on breast (dakimi), heart, tenderloin, drumettes, wings, chicken knee (hiza-mawari), artery and minced chicken meatballs (tsukune) dipped into a tare glaze for which the base goes back decades. Eating here is almost a meditative act with diners taking their lead from Ho’s studied expertise and the room’s aura of calm.

Setting the gold standard for yakitori in Canada.” Mijune Pak

The lantern is lit when the restaurant is open.

Stuffed dry-aged chicken wing with sudachi.

Prepping the grill.

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The lantern is lit when the restaurant is open.

Stuffed dry-aged chicken wing with sudachi.

Prepping the grill.