Sometimes two chefs are better than one.
The kitchen brigade system that Auguste Escoffier introduced in the late 19th century was inspired by the military, with clear chains of command and one undisputed authority figure at the top—the chef. The structure has stood the test of time for well over a hundred years, but now things are starting to change. In a notable minority of some of the best restaurants in the country, you no longer find one chef in charge, but two.
Eric Robertson, co-chef with Daniel Hadida at #1-ranked, two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Pearl Morissette, in Jordan Station, Ont., thinks many chefs could benefit from such a system, “as long as they are open-minded and put their egos aside.”
Marc-Olivier Frappier, who shares chef duties with Jessica Noël at Montreal’s Mon Lapin, echoes the sentiment. “It’s clearly not a model for everyone, but for me, I saw it as essential from day 1 of the restaurant,” he says, adding that he wouldn’t have done it with anyone other than Jessica Noël. “She’s not only my best friend, but she’s [also] the best chef I’ve ever had the chance to work with.”
You will find a similar arrangement (and mutual admiration) at Montréal Plaza, where the creative partnership between Charles-Antoine Crête and Cheryl Johnson has driven the restaurant for a decade, nearly all of it spent in the top 20 of Canada’s 100 Best. In Quebec City, the duo of Alexandra Roy and Charles Provencher-Proulx runs the kitchen at Melba, one of the most-sought-after restaurants in the provincial capital, while husband and wife Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth are equal culinary partners at perennially top-10-ranked Edulis, in Toronto.
A lighter workload figures prominently on the list of advantages allowed for by a chef tandem.“[Being a chef] is a very exhausting job, both physically and mentally,” says Frappier. “Fatigue wears you down and creative exhaustion quickly follows.” “Two heads are better than one,” adds his co-chef, Noël. “When one is tired, the other takes over.”
Mutual advantage can also be found in dividing responsibilities. At Restaurant Pearl Morissette, for example, Hadida is charged with the creative side of the entire business—including the bakery—while Robertson stays focused on the restaurant that carries the brand. Both chefs taste and approve every dish before it hits the table. “It’s an asset to have two people who are so committed, working toward the same goal and aiming for extremely high standards,” notes Robertson.
For Pierre-Olivier Pelletier of Kebec Club Privé, in Quebec City, one of Canada’s most intimate Michelin-starred restaurants, sharing command with co-chef Cassandre Osterroth helps them both challenge themselves to take a dish to the next level. And this synergy often seems to be a source of motivation for the entire brigade. Noël agrees. Working in tandem, she says, “creates a very strong cohesion within the team, a feeling of security, and helps maintain an optimal level of energy.”
At Restaurant Pearl Morissette, Robertson emphasizes another aspect. The co-chef partnership means there is always someone to confide in, share ideas with, or simply dream about the future with. “It’s essential for staying motivated,” he says. It’s also a demanding working arrangement that requires trust and humility.
“You have to be open-minded and willing to compromise,” Frappier acknowledges.
The co-chef model is far from a miracle solution that will work for everyone, but it does show that other systems for running a kitchen can function successfully outside Escoffier’s template. And there are many ways in which it might be an improvement—by lessening workload and stimulating creativity. Though it also introduces new risks. “The customers shouldn’t ever feel like they’re eating the cuisine of two different chefs,” Osterroth says. “Culinary identity has to be clear and understandable.”
Olivier Pelletier and Cassandre Osterroth of Kebec Club Privé
Jessica Noël and Marc-Olivier Frappier of Mon Lapin
Daniel Hadida and Eric Robertson of RPM
Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth of Edulis
— Tommy Dion
Photography: Ludovic Gauthier, Dominique Lafond, Seuch and Beck, Kate Ince
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