Surrounded by river and the trees of Prince’s Island Park, River Café seems set apart from the city whatever the season. Tables close to the cozy crackle of the fireplace are in demand through fall and winter, while snagging a spot on the patio during the warmer months is nearly a competitive sport. The dining room’s rustic décor highlights exposed wood, stone and brick, and the vintage sports equipment is a nod to local fishing lodges and mountain resorts. It’s all in tune with the restaurant’s steadfast culinary ethos, anchored in a reverence for the environment and a commitment to exclusive use of Canadian and Albertan ingredients. Chef Kristen Livingston’s dishes offer rich rural flavours executed with urban finesse. A slab of Haida Gwaii halibut with smashed fingerlings and zucchini ribbons merits two sauces — a purée of watercress and basil and a red-pepper velouté. Plump ravioli are stuffed with rock crab and mascarpone, lapped by a corn-and-lobster bisque and strewn with crunchy saltines and pickled fennel. Sommelier Bruce Soley’s wide-ranging wine list is organized by grape varieties, with B.C. well represented.
Haidi Gwaii Halibut.
PEI Rock Crab Ravioli.
River Café in summer.
Haidi Gwaii Halibut.
PEI Rock Crab Ravioli.
River Café in summer.
Sal Howell is the consummate restaurateur of all things wonderful.” Elizabeth Carson
