At Kavita, which opened late last year, Tushar Tondvalkar gives upscale Indian cuisine its due. A la carte dishes — such as charcoal-grilled chicken kebab with creamy malai sauce; and goat-and-lentil haleem with fried onion, ginger and serrano pepper — showcase the depth of South Asian fare beyond typical curries and chutneys. The food shines with quiet, measured confidence.