Dreyfus

No. 15

THE INTIMACY OF THE SMALL, narrow space, its good looks, seductively dim lighting and cool Italo-disco playlist combine for an unusual charm. Add to the mix discreet, professional and friendly service, a progressive but accessible wine list and owner-chef Zach Kolomeir’s smart, inventive French-inspired cooking, and it’s no surprise this Harbord bistro has been a hit since day 1. Recently, the cooking here has been influenced by Mike Sala, who cut his teeth at revered Abruzzo restaurants. Some dishes — like handmade agnolotti with saffron — wink to his heritage, while others pay homage to Kolomeir’s Montreal roots and Joe Beef credentials. But while exuberance and indulgence define Joe Beef, compositions at Dreyfus have become more streamlined, focused and modern, but truer to classic bistro. Consider a recent early-spring sauté of sweetbread, finished with Marsala sauce and the first chanterelles. Same with the beef tartare on squares of latkes, and the grilled scallops contemporized with curry fava shoots, bright shiso leaves and a swirl of jus. The menu practises impermanence and shifts with each micro-season, though a mastery of French mother sauces will always be showcased. Let your server pair wines by the glass — and do not forgo dessert.

The Dish: Pommes dauphine — fluffy mashed potato and choux pastry puffs — are the only constant. Accompanying dips could be caviar and crème fraiche or whipped trout and pickles.