This pastel-washed Parkdale bar is a triple threat. The daytime chef plates hand-rolled pasta with pleasing Italian sauces; in the evening, chefs switch out and the menu changes to neo-Chinese street snacks, like smoked salmon towers with scallion pancakes. From open to close, Evelyn Chick’s creative cocktails make the familiar taste new, say, the make-your-own- martini service or the Melon Calling — an earthy, funky tropical mai tai made with baijiu, melon gin, sherry and matcha horchata.