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No. 3

Sushi Yūgen

At the chef’s counter — an eight-seat oasis at the rear of the main restaurant — itamae Kyohei Igarashi’s omakase menu of 20-odd courses channels his extensive training in both kaiseki and edomae sushi, along with a taste of his travels. The cooking is disciplined and inventive, and the experience refined.

Photography by Rick O’Brien

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