When Juliana Wolkowski (formerly of Bar Raval, Dreyfus) was handed the keys to the former Hoof Cocktail Bar, she was faced with a tall task: How do you update a beloved bar? She did so with a light touch. Hoof classics like the Absinthe Whip and the signature Manhattan stayed; in came esoteric riffs on classics (a Scotch, miso and sandalwood Old Fashioned; a raspberry and black cardamom non-alcoholic Negroni). All liqueurs are now made in-house by Wolkowski and David Greig. Yet charms of the bric-a-brac jewel-box little space remain.