Mere steps from Kitsilano beach, this revered little gem has lost none of its lustre. There have been structural and decorative changes — and more are promised — but the room retains its relaxed and visually playful charm, with Lego sculptures, Star Wars memorabilia and other nostalgic bric-a-brac popping vividly against the dining room’s moody navy blue décor. Whimsy and imagination are also elements of chef Mike Robbins’s cooking, along with a highly refined focus and a commitment to seasonal B.C. ingredients. Since 2020, he has concentrated exclusively on a tasting menu. It evolves continually, one dish at a time, though some signature items — like the oyster crowned with apple-jalapeño mignonette and shaved foie gras, or the torn bread with mussels and broth (and other seasonal accompaniments) — are not going anywhere. Exotic influences show up from time to time, based on Robbins’s travels: for example, a green curry marinade for black cod that is then cooked over charcoal, served with chanterelles, alkaline noodles and a mushroom-and-charred-onion tea. Before dessert, a cheese course bridges savoury and sweet and plays on classic Canadiana, pairing a griddled lemon-caraway sourdough with goat-cheese cheesecake and chocolate, and a preserve of summer’s ever-changing berry harvest. Celebrated wine director Reverie Beall bolsters the fun factor with delicious, hard-to-find wines from small producers, while cocktails deftly straddle the divide between tradition and modern experimentation.
A playful menu — imaginative, yet focused.” Chef, Wild Blue Alex Chen
