Martin Picard’s ode to foie gras remains one of Montreal’s most unapologetically indulgent expressions of Québécois cooking — now a family affair, with nephew Michael Picard-Labelle in the kitchen and daughter Charlotte as maître d’hôtel. The menu shifts with the seasons, cocktails feature products from Picard’s Cabane à Sucre Au Pied de Cochon, and a seafood tower returns for warmer months. Still, foie gras remains the star. The wine list is solid.