Quiet, storybook-like Steveston Village, best known for frozen yogurt and battered fish, may, at first glance, seem like an unlikely locale for a fine-dining Thai restaurant. But an experience at Baan Lao shows, upon deeper reflection, that it is perfectly suited to its charmed surroundings. High loft ceilings, large windows overlooking the river and crisp white tablecloths create a calm, ethereal setting for chef-owner Nutcha Phanthoupheng to apply meticulous finesse to the rarefied canons of royal Thai cuisine. A former nurse and cancer researcher, she had never worked as a professional chef before opening her 20-seat restaurant in 2021, but she learned her craft by studying privately with chefs in Bangkok. Brought to the table by white-gloved servers, each of the 18 beautifully plated dishes on the tasting menu is an intricate tribute to Thai cuisine. The meal begins with a cascade of small bites, including a dainty Thai dumpling, the purple dough shaped by hand to resemble a bird and stuffed with moist minced chicken; and a palate-awakening tart filled with spicy catfish and sour mango. Next is the bright and creamy coconut soup poured over truffle pearls. One of several main dishes might include tiger prawns and lobster in a sensational tom yum reduction. Options for beverage pairings encompass various levels of tea, sake or wine pairings, as well as cocktails and mocktails.

Confidently pushing boundaries while staying grounded in purpose.” Wendy Nordvik-Carr

Waiter at tea service station.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Wild pepper leaf wrap in carved carrot; Thai chicken dumpling with chicken; rice cracker with yellow curry.

Coconut mousse with Dungeness crab and caviar.

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Waiter at tea service station.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Wild pepper leaf wrap in carved carrot; Thai chicken dumpling with chicken; rice cracker with yellow curry.

Coconut mousse with Dungeness crab and caviar.