Co-owners David Gauthier and Emily Homsy helm a neighbourhood restaurant beloved for its seasonal cooking and welcoming space. The refreshed room retains art deco nods but now reads more contemporary — spacious, yet still intimate, with a new banquette section along the windows. A long bar anchors the space. Gauthier combines a contemporary, seasonally attuned approach to French cuisine with myriad Middle Eastern influences. On the menu, you’ll find both falafel (Homsy’s grandmother’s recipe, served with tahini) and boudin with apples and red wine sauce. Dishes highlight top-quality ingredients, impeccable technique and imaginative combinations — razor clams chopped with tabouleh on the half shell; aged pork with sauce Robert; and, come spring, the return of their barbecued trout with beurre blanc and dandelion greens. A five-course sharing menu (chef’s choice) moves from fresh seafood into progressively heartier plates. Desserts apply local flourishes to international classics, say, in a squash cheesecake with pumpkin seeds and nutmeg, and the pineapple upside-down cake with rum custard. Homsy’s wine list is extensive and thoughtful, with plenty of natural wines joining the classics.

An original menu, fresh and seasonal.” Julie Martel