Co-owner brothers Ari and Pablo Schor opened this unpretentious, convivial 28-seat restaurant in 2019, naming it for their beloved grandmother. Since then, it has singlehandedly turned a quiet residential corner in the working-class suburb of Verdun into a culinary destination, drawing regulars from near and far. Much of its appeal is attributable to the brothers’ generous sense of hospitality, but more important still is their commitment to being the best possible ambassadors for their rich, but locally unusual, Argentine-Jewish culinary tradition.

We’re celebrating historic foods that don’t need to be made to sound like more than they are.” Chef, co-owner Ari Schor

The ostensibly simple, unfussy, unrepentantly meaty offerings are presented in a manner that belies the considerable effort that goes into them, especially as concerns an extensive offering of offal — tripe alla cacciatora, perhaps with yellowfoot chanterelles and guanciale. Come springtime, seafood and vegetables also receive their due. Quebec snow crab is turned into terrines and paellas; young artichokes from Italy are served with a mixed grill of lamb. Most customers choose to start the evening with chef Ari’s perennial classics — golden knish topped with Imperial Osetra caviar or cured Japanese mackerel montadito with sesame and horseradish. Alongside the à la carte, a tasting menu is available every night, as well as a chef’s menu of dishes served family-style. Says Ari: “We love to reward our regulars with new dishes or off-menu items.”

They cook what they love. And there is absolutely no pretense.” Thy Le Gossack