After nearly nine years at the helm, Hector Laguna announced his departure in early 2026 and, at press time, his successor had yet to be named. Botanist, meanwhile, was still firing on all cylinders, its menu as bold and assured as always. Regulars return for classics like hand-cut tagliatelle with foraged mushrooms. And other dishes that test boundaries: sourdough-crusted chicken with Savoy cabbage, and lamb shank with Sicilian pistachios and chipotle.