Executive chef Roger Ma lets superb ingredients speak for themselves — blue fin tuna as sashimi; B.C. wagyu beef as carpaccio — or gives them a modern Asian-inflected spin. Charcoal-grilled sablefish with soy-sake glaze, local bull kelp and bone-broth emulsion looks exquisite, tastes sublime. Don’t miss Kenta Takahashi’s desserts. Service in the opulent room is polished to a fine sheen.