From the day it opened, in 2012, “DNA” has set the standard for imaginative dining in Winnipeg. Owner-chef Mandel Hitzer’s convivial personality is in evidence everywhere, from the intriguing menu (“Silk Pappadelle with sesame, pecorino and secrets”) to the stylish intimacy of the space, where soft lighting is punctuated by bright artworks and warm wood accents. Hitzer champions the iconic produce of the Prairies but loves to highlight it in delightfully unexpected international contexts. So, Shaved Raw Deer (local venison) comes with nahm jim (Thai dipping sauce), smoked onions and peanuts, while slow-baked beets are paired with tuna, horseradish emulsion and ginger-soy dressing. Hitzer is clearly having fun — and everyone benefits. The mash-up continues with the Burnt Toast dessert, comprised of smoked-bacon jam, berry jam and maple whip, or Tres Leches Cake with tortilla ice cream. Choose the dining room for the four-course prix fixe or opt for the à la carte menu at the bar (there is overlap in choices). The wine program looks to small producers and uncommon grape varieties and includes a pairing to complement the prix fixe.
Best seat
Table No. 9 offers a view of the restaurant and Winnipeg’s historic Exchange District.
Smoked fish on “everything” lavash.
Coconut sundae.
Birch & blackberry.
Smoked fish on “everything” lavash.
Coconut sundae.
Birch & blackberry.
The constantly changing menu never ceases to surprise and delight. One of the best restaurants in Western Canada.” Matthew Liang
