This Junction mainstay is rooted in the essentials — an adept coffee program, all-day service, friendly faces and respectable nosh (breakfast sandwiches in the morning; caviar and chips in the later hours). There’s a strong ice program and a deep cellar of cult natural wines. A Martini “My Way” offers a choice of gins and vodkas, along with plenty of options for olives and twists, caper berries and cocktail onions, plus the “Monster Munch.” (Of the last option, the menu merely says, Trust Us.) Drinks are made with precision. A Banana Daiquiri is built from Bumbu and Smith & Cross rums. The Amaro Sour is layered with a blend of amari, egg whites and rhubarb-infused Peychaud’s bitters. The wine list is full of cool-kid gems from around the globe, including bottles from Gut Oggau, Ruth Lewandowski and from Anders Frederik Steen and Anne Bruun Blauert. That said, it’s still a neighbourhood bar, so icy pilsners and shot specials are always on offer.