By definition, this is a diner. There’s a long countertop, vintage wallpaper, ’70s wood panelling, cold beers and the steady hum of regulars unpacking from their day. Greasy spoon standards are given sophisticated flourishes, as in the superlative Caviar Fish Filet (Atlantic cod topped with a tangy yuzu-tartar sauce studded with Osetra caviar). Cocktails play with Asian ingredients and savoury flavours. Case in point: a White Negroni kissed with Szechuan peppercorn and a house-made pomelo-lemongrass-gentian liqueur, the house Martini dosed with black-garlic-and-tomato brine and Thai fermented-soybean seasoning.

Run by an A-team of industry vets — sibling duo Christine and Andrew Pham (who also own Big Trouble), Sasha Siegel (Overpressure Club, Bar Banane), Kaleb Hansen (BarChef) and Jon Kim (After Seven).