At Marché de l’Ouest, in Montreal’s West Island, David McMillan and Derek Dammann — formerly of Joe Beef and Maison Publique, respectively — return to a fire-driven vision of the steak house. Grille-Nature centres on seafood, vegetables and responsibly farmed meats — in-house-grilled rotisserie chicken; charcoal sausage with poached pear and fried sage; and produce pulled from nearby purveyors. The expansive, character-rich room and welcoming bar reflect McMillan’s instinctive aesthetic, matched by an eclectic wine list and warm, confident service.