Fans who mourned Lumière and Feenie’s from the 2000s were overjoyed when, in 2024, Rob Feenie returned to Vancouver’s fine-dining scene. But rather than start something new, he took over local institution Le Crocodile from his one-time mentor and its founding chef, Michel Jacob. A substantial renovation ensued. The dining room brightened with more natural light, blond woods, welcoming banquettes and an updated lounge area. Where the menu was concerned, Feenie proposed a similar refreshment instead of a reinvention. Many perennial favourites remain, such as foie gras terrine, diminutive Dover sole, veal escalopes with morel sauce and Alsatian apple tart, but their interpretation has evolved, recalling the instinct for vivid, harmonious simplicity that made Feenie’s cooking so brilliant in his Lumière days. Sauces have been getting lighter, products better, and subtle Asian grace notes lend a contemporary Vancouver touch. That said, the menu still reads as French. Bluefin tuna is served with lemon, anchovy and niçoise vinaigrette; roasted frogs’ legs merit confit tomato, crispy basil and tarragon. Don’t miss the poulet à la crème. On the tasting menu, grilled venison is plated with a cherry jus, lovage and farro verde. New wine director Andrew Forsyth has been adding to the iconic French list, bringing in more wines under $150 from small organic producers and a number of grower Champagnes.

A lighter, brighter approach to modern French cuisine. The plating is beautiful.” Caren McSherry