The look is modern minimalist, but the ambience is convivial, the welcome warm. Chef and co-owner Simon Mathys’s five-course, carte blanche tasting menu changes continually, his hyper-imaginative dishes inspired by Quebec terroir — and unfailingly delicious. Walleye with purée of grilled zucchini, basil, eggplant bolognese and miso sauce sounds eccentric but tastes divine. Sunchokes are flattered by grilled cabbage, foie gras and jus naturel. Thoughtfully paired wine flights — four or five pours — lean natural and cocktails embrace Quebec spirits.