A self-professed “maximalist,” chef Emily Butcher builds menus filled with a garden’s worth of textures alongside gorgeous sauces shot through with acidity. Dishes like smoked-goldeye lo bak go with seared scallops, grilled cabbage and fermented-radish beurre blanc showcase her Chinese heritage, Vancouver upbringing (she trained at West) and years spent with Mandel Hitzer at Deer + Almond to dazzling effect. Nola’s room, looking out onto the streets of Saint-Boniface, is just as lively.