With a new name for the restaurant (formerly Yujiro), its cuisine ranges wider. Edward Lam delivers sushi classics along with delicious riffs on pan-Asian and global fare. Italian influence in a winter dish of charcoal-grilled seabass with garlic black- bean marinara; for summer a cucumber boat with shima-aji, octopus, anchovy and ikura, finished with shallot, olive oil and garlic. Poached halibut is accompanied by English peas, beurre blanc and fresh herbs. Flavours are layered, clean and complex.