Four years in, Matty Matheson’s bright and airy steakhouse has settled into a sophisticated groove. The Omar Gandhi–designed monochromatic cathedral cast in pale slatted wood and tan leather is as striking as ever. But the volume on its soundtrack of ’60s and ’70s classics has been lowered to a civil setting. The flow of selfie-stick-wielding fans hoping to catch a glimpse of the celebrity proprietor has waned in favour of serious diners — many of them drawn here more by executive chef Coulson Armstrong’s recent triumph on Top Chef Canada than by Matheson’s 2024 Emmy for The Bear. Many are here for special occasions. For others, it’s just a casually indulgent night out, never mind the price. The latter type of dinner begins with a large tin of Kaluga caviar served with potato crisps. Next, perhaps a globe-trotting Sicilian crudo trio of Gulf of Mexico bluefin tuna, Australian amberjack and dry-aged king salmon. The tartares (tuna or steak) are superlative in texture and balance. The steaks come in many pleasing cuts and breeds, but take note, the Australian wagyu ribeye doused in PSP bordelaise and covered in lashings of black truffle is the king of them all. Side dishes of vegetables (all sourced from Blue Goose) are consistently imaginative. Desserts are well-executed comfort fare, with classics like key lime pie. From its original Burgundian slant, the wine list now has much greater range — and notably, features an apparently inexhaustible supply of Krug by the glass. Service is polished.

A must. Never disappoints.” Jessie Cayabo