Now in its fifth year, this Little Italy bistro remains essentially unchanged in format: a compact, playful menu is built around seven savoury dishes, cheese and two desserts. Founder Brendan Lavery and chef James Coyle continue to lean on a tight network of artisanal Quebec producers. Dishes follow suit: raw amberjack with parsnip à la barigoule; Ardéchoise-style caillette with clams and gigantes; Montebello trout with watercress and potatoes; and pork from Ferme d’Orée with apple and carrot. A standout (when offered) is the roasted flat cabbage, set in soubise and swirled with a rich XO-style sauce peppered with dried scallops and salted pork. Sticky carrot pudding closes. Set designer François Séguin built the ambience; ceramicist Élyse Leclerc hewed and hung the Calder-evoking mobile. Wines are low-intervention, and cocktails focus on G&Ts souped up with verjus.