As it approaches its tenth year, much of this restaurant’s enduring success is attributable to chef-owner J-C Poirier’s ability and commitment to constantly reframe the manner in which he presents his elevated French and Québécois cooking. Recurring themed menus keep the concept fresh. January through March inevitably means a cabane à sucre menu, featuring refined iterations of Poirier’s childhood favourites from the sugar shack: oreilles de crisse (deep-fried pork back fat drizzled with maple syrup and a sprinkle of Montreal steak spice), split pea soup and tourtière. This spring saw the focus then shift to the upscale family cooking of France, with a special menu celebrating la cuisine bourgeoise. In this case, escargots in puff pastry, pâté en croûte with duck and black trumpet mushrooms, rack of lamb with pommes aligot, along with sablefish and prawns with a sabayon of beurre noisette. Desserts run classical — from espresso and chocolate mille feuille to a maple tartlet. The cooking is always highly refined and features the best available ingredients, mostly from small B.C.-based purveyors. The room is small and handsomely appointed, its vibe enhanced with the convivial front bar and a semi-open kitchen. Virginie Semery oversees a list focused on small producers making organic and biodynamic wines.