With its dimly red-lit bar, mismatched furniture and in-your-face anarchic dive-bar energy, Sweaty Betty’s predates the Ossington strip’s hipness by a decade (it opened in 2004). At a glance, it may seem like a joint for stumbling into at night’s end, but regulars know better. Drinks, both classic and house originals, are meticulously stirred, shaken and juiced. Most ring in under $18. A Paper Plane is juicy, boozy and served with a swirl of lemon peel. A wide selection of beers is available on tap or by the bottle, and there’s an extensive food menu, including vegan options.