In the vaulted cellars of a 17th-century building in Old Québec, your entrée to dinner is via a coveted reservation, replete with instructions and an access code. What follows is an experience that unfolds across a sequence of rooms, in three chapters and 15 small plates — a virtual theatrical reading of Quebec’s boreal terroir. Chef François-Emmanuel Nicol works closely with Quebec producers, building a progression from river to forest, each course tied to a place and its story. The meal might begin with a single bite — say, a taco of wild-carrot root with venison and mustard — and conclude with a trio of mignardises arranged in a miniature tree. Mains could be Nova Scotia lobster, lightly poached, then finished over charcoal, with matsutake mushroom, lemongrass and cabbage, alongside a crisp matsutake cylinder stuffed with lobster and preserved chili. Or it could be trout cooked in clay with spruce, Labrador tea and fermented wild blueberry, or perhaps quail with foie gras, turnip, agastache and honey. A signature dish (on the menu since day one) pairs scallops, yellow sturgeon caviar, Raphaëlle potatoes and beurre blanc. Led by sommelier Jonathan Strokowski Ross and mixologist Simon Faucher, pairings range from non-alcoholic options to grand crus and rare vintages. A chef’s counter in the original vault puts the brigade in full view. Art and design elements in the intimate rooms draw on Quebec’s land and history. One of the country’s most distinctive experiences.
A journey of discovery for all your senses.” Pay Chen
