Some people love this Little Burgundy eatery because it serves beautiful seafood platters, foie gras, excellent dry-aged steak, and all kinds of other sturdy, meaty dishes, liberally seasoned with old-school enhancements like salt, butter and Worcestershire sauce. Others go there for the sharp wine list. Still more are enchanted by the beautiful garden that grows in the summer, offering both produce and inspiration to the two chefs who run the place, David McMillan and Fred Morin. Noisy, and always very busy, this restaurant does not try to be very delicate, either in the way it welcomes diners or in the way it serves its food. Its enduring appeal is rooted in its authenticity. Not just the ingredients, but the décor as well—if something decorative looks old, it’s very likely an antique. And there are many of those on the walls, to create a genuine warm retro atmosphere. Reservations are a must—unless you want to try your luck for a last-minute spot at the bar, a great vantage point from which to watch the crazy local scene unfold.