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Deke into a narrow graffiti-coated alley located between two cheque-cashing joints, slip through a red-lit unmarked door, and prepare to tumble down a rabbit hole equal parts mysterious booze can, mad science lab and warm neighbourhood pub. Celebrating its fourth birthday, the Atwater Cocktail Club has made snazzy cosmetic changes—the famous orange leather banquettes have been reupholstered in shiny silver— but its hallmarks are unchanged. The ACC remains committed to inventive cocktails with unusual fresh ingredients (Dame Nature, for instance, which combines Citadelle gin, aquavit, thyme, green grapes and fennel). They still source perfectly clear artisanal ice, cut to fit each glass. And the bar food still comes from Foiegwa, the celebrated self-styled “French diner” that is connected to the club.

TRY: BLACK GOTHAM, A KEGGED COCKTAIL THAT COMBINES BOURBON, LIQUEURS AND BITTERS.

Photo: MAT DEROME

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