Joe Beef

No. 41

DESPITE THE NOTABLE departures of recent years (McMillan, Filipovic, Frappier, etc.) founding partners Fred Morin and Allison Cunningham have kept this institution well on track. Its personality remains oversized, the exuberant joie de vivre contagious. The newly made-over dining room is still full of bric-a-brac, a nod to the antiques shops that used to line the street. The unpretentious old-school cuisine is lyonnais-inspired, but, as Morin notes, “with a Boston oyster bar and a Berkeley, California, garden.” A Québécois sense of indulgence pervades everything. Executive chef Jean-Philippe Miron presides over a menu that is hearty and luxurious. Perennial favourite lobster spaghetti combines lobster fumet, lardons and brandy-infused cream. Lidded casseroles — say, duck à la royale — are presented with a flourish. Choices are clever and compelling — think foie gras “Tatin”; frogs’ legs and pâté; roast albacore with gooseberry. In summer, expect lighter fare like wild striped bass or charcoal-grilled young halibut from the Gaspé. Desserts range from the classic layered marjolaine to an upside-down orange olive-oil cake topped with a Creamsicle. Wine director Max Campbell and sommelier Laura Piasek embrace worlds old, new and emerging, with Quebec vintners playing an increasingly large role.