Ten years in, this gilded flagship of Groupe Barroco (Bon Délire, Milky Way, Foiegwa) remains one of Montreal’s most reliably packed destination bars. Imbibers lounge on glittery couches or perch at the bar and groove to DJs on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. The backbar is stacked with top-shelf bottles and hard-to-get sugar-cane and agave spirits, which make an impact in odd and exciting cocktails such as 24 Karot, a lightly smoky and herbal combination of mezcal, Aperol, herbal liqueur, smoked carrot and a winter spice foam. First-rate bar plates include fried chicken with Gentleman’s Relish and the homemade spaghetti with butter and black truffle. This all may sound swish, but the warm hospitality and a mastery of the classics have kept the clientele largely local.
Eat
The Smash Burger on a brioche bun, paired with a glass of fizz — the house leans hard into bubbles, with more than 30 bottles on hand.
Still thirsty?
Head to nearby sister bar Bon Délire for one last drink (or hot dogs, served ’til 3 a.m.).
The moody room.
Team Atwater.
Zero proof
The Sober Island — silky and aromatic with NOA amaretto, lychee tea and citrus — is a star in the well-built zero-proof program.
Good to know
Every drink lists its ABV — handy if you’re pacing yourself.
Photography by Roxanne Mailloux (cocktail), Chloe Raymond (team), Elizabeth Gartside (interior)
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