Originally conceived as the second chapter of the dearly departed D.O.P., DOPO has evolved into a refined and more grown-up version of its predecessor. Proprietor Tony Migliarese takes cues from his late father’s career as a hospitality-focused restaurateur. The result: a warm below-ground Tuscan tavern and a kitchen with an eye on luxe ingredients. This is a sumptuous take on rustic fare. Chef David Leeder (ex-Per Se in NYC) has moved to a culinary director position and also oversees the new Penny Crown across the street, but his influence at DOPO is palpable. Still a must-order is the puffy sea-salted grilled bread with whipped ricotta and the garlicky pickled green tomatoes (the recipe via Migliarese’s mother). Equally enticing are more complex offerings, like roasted butternut squash stacked with prosciutto, pumpkin seeds and fried sage. House-made pasta is typically sauced simply, while the massive secondi courses — including the veal milanese topped with saffron, capers and butter — transform any meal into a feast. Wine and cocktail lists are suitably Italian, with good house wines for those looking to direct their budgets to (more) food.

I would die for Leeder’s 28-layer lasagna…or kill for it. Either works.” Rebecca Felgate