This institution’s personality remains oversized, its exuberant joie de vivre intact. The Lyonnaise-inspired cooking is unpretentious, with an oyster-bar spirit and a Québécois appetite for richness. Executive chef Jean-Philippe Miron guides a menu where signatures endure: lobster spaghetti with fumet, lardons and brandy cream, and oeuf en gelée with Madeira, jambon blanc and black truffle. The wine list spans classic and emerging regions, with Quebec playing a growing role.