Ontario’s most beloved and sophisticated country house hotel, now 37 years old, meets an ever-expanding litany of needs (weddings, conferences, spa getaways, etc.), but its main restaurant remains the property’s heart and soul. This is Jason Bangerter’s playground — and in his scheme of things, it extends well beyond the kitchen, to Langdon’s two sets of gardens and the surrounding forest where he likes to forage. Some 85 percent of the food and drink served here is now Ontario-sourced — a terroir-driven cuisine that values flavour and sensory satisfaction as highly as meticulous technique. In winter, this might mean locally farmed lamb belly with swede (rutabaga) and clothbound cheddar; in summer, fresh coriander, young onions and sauce vierge enhance Nova Scotia lobster, a nod to Bangerter’s East Coast heritage. The dining room is very proper: pressed linens, polished crystal, formal service. The drama is on the plate, often accented with edible flowers, tender leaves or other gathered things. Bangerter’s long run here (13 years and counting) is best celebrated with a signature nine-course tasting menu, which features many elaborate presentations, like juniper-smoked local trout with a crispy cracker made from its skin, and a dainty tartlet of smoked roe and rillettes. Accompanying wine pairings are offered in two tiers — the Globe Trotter and the ne plus ultra World Classics. Either way, wine director Faye MacLachlan’s choices are inspired, facilitated by the vast cellar.

Garden-to-table fine dining at its best.” Rosemary Bacovsky