Pasta pooks gives Luca “Pooks” Labelle Vinci a permanent home for the handmade pastas he honed at Mano Cornuto, Impasto and Nora Gray. Once a sliver of a counter operation, the now-expanded space with a renovated dining room keeps the focus on the pasta. Vinci is joined by long-time collaborator Victor-Alex “Coach Vic” Petrenko (Double’s) and chef de cuisine Kai Borst (formerly of Maison Publique). Steering a sharp natural-leaning wine list is Martin Pariseau (ex Menu Extra). The seasonal menu stays tight — antipasti, a classic Philly cheesesteak, fresh pastas made each morning and a small selection of dolci. Dishes shift often. Think baccalà mantecato — air-dried cod whipped with olive oil into a silky spread served as a classic cicchetto on grilled polenta. Agnolotti del plin al sugo d’arrosto might follow — pasta stuffed with veal and pork, coated in a butter-enriched roasting jus and topped with fried sage. Dessert keeps to the classics: tiramisù finished with flaky sea salt to balance the sweetness. Service is relaxed but attentive, matching a menu that’s precise and unpretentious.

How many times per week is too many?” Vanya Filipovic