Jesse Grasso’s Thai and Isaan dishes land with a sharp street-food sensibility. Intensely seasoned plates pair naturally with a low-intervention wine list leaning toward whites, skin-contact and rosé, skillfully curated by wine director Henri Murray. But kick things off with a makrut lime cocktail, and follow it with fish balls on a stick or tapioca dumplings with candied pork and peanuts. And then, duck laab — a spicy Isaan-style salad of minced local duck and grilled hearts — or raw scallops with nam jim talay sauce, mint and pickled garlic. Early summer brings whole sawagani river crabs, fried and served with nam prik pao and salted-egg-yolk mayonnaise. The heart of the menu is the specials list — showcasing local ingredients, including produce and herbs grown by Sukonta Beaulieu and La Charrette. Rely on your server’s expertise to navigate. Whole fried fish — Arctic char from a local, sustainable closed-containment fish farm — comes in tamarind-chili sauce with crispy garlic. In summer, cool the heat with nam kang sai, a take on Thai shaved ice with syrups and local fruit toppings. In the sleek dining room, the mood is boisterous. You’ll find Thai families, enthralled with the uncompromising tastes of home, as well as well-travelled locals, equipped with their own memories of Bangkok sois.
Tip
Check Instagram for wine events with visiting producers.
Food that hits you right away.
It’s loud, spicy and alive.” Scott Usheroff
