Gastro-pilgrims from around the world make this their destination, eager to experience the two-and-a-half-hour, 11-course tasting menu. Locals drop by to sit at the bar in the bright greenery-filled space and order à la carte — a similar gastronomic revelation that’s just as much fun. Either experience allows you to revel in chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson’s singular combination of Nordic sensibility (through abundant use of fermentation, as well as foraged ingredients like elderflowers, nettles and sea asparagus), his own Manitoban German heritage and ingredients that exemplify the West Coast. His treatment of winter squash has become a fall-winter staple, an expression of the restaurant’s passion for seasonality, patience and intention. The vegetable is roasted for sweetness and pickled for freshness while its seeds are fermented into a pepita miso that’s now over four years old. Barely cooked sidestripe shrimp are joined by cucumber and apple, whose trims are juiced and made into a dressing with horseradish oil. Dessert might be wintergreen ice cream with savoury brown butter and chanterelles crémeux, accented with wild blueberry, echoing forest scents and flavours. Haley Macleod is the new wine director, her list celebrating sustainable winemaking, from iconic cult producers to small B.C. growers.
Creative, inventive and inspired. Nobody knows what goes on in Gus’s head, but you know it’ll be damn delicious.” Mijune Pak
Chef’s famous snacks.
Preservation pantry.
Chef Stieffenhofer-Brandson and team.
Chef’s famous snacks.
Preservation pantry.
Chef Stieffenhofer-Brandson and team.
