LIKE ALL GREAT HOTEL RESTAURANTS, HAWKSWORTH, SITUATED IN THE ROSEWOOD HOTEL GEORGIA, MUST BE MANY THINGS TO MANY PEOPLE.
Settle in for lunch here at the granite bar, or on a leather banquette in the surrounding lounge beneath the dazzling Damien Hirst (Big Love Diamond Dust, with a butterfly, of course), and you won’t be out of place ordering a hamburger, a beer and a newspaper for company. Meanwhile, a few steps away, the chandeliered Pearl Room and the Art Room are twin settings for the most elegant lunch in town. And come nightfall, the whole place swings to glamourous, with an air of celebration, date nights and special occasions. What connects it all is David Hawksworth’s exquisite cooking, which is constantly evolving and always interesting. It possesses a finesse easily traced to the great London kitchens, where he honed his craft decades ago. But his style is now all his own: highly sophisticated, enchantingly colourful, generally light, and possessed of an almost Asian preoccupation with texture and mouthfeel.
Expect bright, distinct flavours, balance and, invariably, some crunch. Hamachi tartare is dressed with a refreshing chili-lime vinaigrette, peppery valentine radish and the crispy counterpoint of puffed rice. Luscious Wagyu carpaccio is strewn with piquillo peppers, textured with crispy beef tendon, and enriched with Manchego (an inspired stand-in for the expected Parmesan). Fish is always a high point: try meaty local white sturgeon, brightened with lemongrass and coconut, or rich sablefish, dressed with yuzu emulsion and charred leek. The kitchen is masterful with duck. Wayne Kozinko’s desserts are exceptional. The cocktail program is cutting edge. The wine list is long, varied and well-curated, and many excellent wines are available by the glass—ask sommelier Bryant Mao to recommend one. Or better yet, settle in for the tasting menu and have him pair the lot.
Monday to Friday
6:30 AM until 10:30 AM
7:00 AM until 10:30 AM
Monday to Friday
11:30 AM until 2:00 PM
Monday to Sunday 5:00 PM until late
Saturday, Sunday 10:30 AM until
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX WABER