No. 13: Maison Publique
MONTREAL’S PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL MIGHT SEEM AN UNLIKELY LOCATION FOR ONE OF THE BEST GASTROPUBS THIS SIDE OF PICCADILLY, BUT THAT’S EXACTLY WHAT MAISON PUBLIQUE IS.
Chef Derek Dammann, along with his backing partner and friend Jamie Oliver, are applying the objective of the original gastropubs—to rediscover, update and legitimize traditional British cooking—to Canadian food. Drawing on the best ingredients from across the country, and putting them through an internationally inspired range of techniques, the kitchen is able to turn out some of the most exciting, dynamic food anywhere.
An especially rich boudin noir, bound together by emulsified pig’s head, is served with apples and watercress dressed in Worcestershire vinegar. Deer tongues, cooked for 72 hours and caramelized on the plancha, are joined by pickled rutabaga and chopped eggs, while creamy foie gras mousse is slathered on toast and served with gherkins. Even a humble bagna cauda becomes something profound and luxurious in the hands of this talented team. The food is serious, but as the toque-wearing taxidermy and sprinkles-covered soft-serve sundaes suggest, this is a restaurant for enjoying, not pondering.
Wednesday to Sunday
6:00 PM until late
10:30 AM until 2:00 PM
DEREK DAMMANN PHOTO BY CARLOSE GUERRA, PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALLEN McEachern