No. 35: Foxy
DYAN SOLOMON AND ÉRIC GIRARD, OWNERS OF THE CULT BREAKFAST AND LUNCH BISTRO OLIVE + GOURMANDO, INSISTED FOR YEARS THAT OPENING A NIGHTTIME RESTAURANT WAS NOT AN OPTION, GIVEN THEIR BUSY SCHEDULE.
But in 2015, 18 years after launching O + G, they realized they were ready for a new adventure, came up with a (locally) novel idea, and found a space for it in up-and-coming Griffintown, not too far from their Old Montreal base. Foxy is a stylishly under-lit restaurant where absolutely everything—whether it’s grilled, roasted or braised—is cooked by wood fire. Solomon is so enamoured of the concept that this winter she did a pilgrimage to Argentina to learn and taste the art of wood cooking from the master himself, Francis Mallmann.
Foxy’s kitchen—headed by Leigh Roper, who started at Le Vin Papillon—is open and smoky and churns out comforting dishes whose every ingredient is sourced from small artisanal producers. For example, the organic Walton flour used to make the flatbread comes from Moulin des Cèdres, 50 kilometres from Montreal. The cooking is neither chic nor elegant, but the strength of Foxy is the same as O + G’s great ingredients and clean flavours sensibly combined. Textures are balanced and nothing is superfluous—as in the charred cabbage coleslaw with pulled duck, apples and parmesan, or the roast chicken with avocado and tomatillo salsa. The wine list is focused on small producers, as natural as possible. Service is relaxed but always friendly. The place is most often packed, so make a reservation well in advance. Or take advantage of the cool bar, which is perfect for walk-ins.
Monday to Sunday
5:30 PM until 11:00 PM
IMAGES COURTESY OF MILOS